Robin costume walkthrough!
1. You can’t have a Robin without a Robin emblem can you?! I sculpted this to cast this in resin. Sometimes its hard to draw a perfect circle, so what I did was draw logos out on illustrator (1:1 scale since illustrator has a handy ruler) and print them out when I was happy with proportions! I had a 4mm thick foam sheet I cut out after i traced the circle and design and built the clay on it. It’ll take a while, but you can smooth the clay with the heat of your hands and a hairdryer or heatgun. The rest of the items were made the same way - there a Red Robin emblem an belt thingies and a batarang too!
The cardboard around it was the build walls to hold the silicon I pour in to make the moulds.
2. Moulds all cured! I didn’t really take any photos of the poured resin because… it’d literally look like pouring water into an ice mould.
3. Maaaaask! The most important part of making a mask is having a cast of your own face. This is something you need help in so ask your friends(2 or more preferable)! They can help you make yours and you can help them make theirs!
this process was taking strips of the clay and putting them in rough shapes to frame the eyes. You have to make sure you give yourself enough room, I actually would have preferred a little more here.
4. I couldn’t take many photos this step because my hands were covered in icky things - what I did was make a soft plasteline wall (like on the other casts and cardboard), sealed the clay with spraypaint/sealant, this is very important!! Because silicon and resin is expensive you can make the mould out of plaster - if you do not seal your cast, it will bond to your face cast. It’s better to make your plaster slightly more on the runny side so the air bubble can rise and you get more detail.
5. The mask pulled - once your plaster cures, gently pull it off you face cast - it’s okay if your clay sculpt is ruined in this process. Take all remaining clay out of the plaster mould and seal with spraypaint/sealant. Now you can paint many thin layers at a time (if it’s too thick it will take too long to dry) until you reach the thickness you desire.
You can mix acrylic paint to the colour you want and add it to the latex as latex dries relatively clear.
It’ll be messy when you pull the latex out, so simply cut the edges clean with scissors.
6. Damian’s vest was a little tricky, I had to alter a usual vest patter so there were no side seams. The belt is fastened with snaps and has 10 pouches I actually flipped upside down so it opens at the bottom because it looked much nicer! The belt buckle I E600’d a belt loop on the back but it fell off at the shoot. I used double sided tape to put it back and it’s never been a problem after :D
7. Most of the costume done - the cape god Jill(breathless-ness) came over to help me draft the cape shape, and i drafted the hood from scrap material. I made the Robin symbol a pin by gluing a pinback to the back so I can remove it.
8. The first bodysuit I made bunched in funny ways - the pvc I used did not stretch so I had to give myself extra room for when my muscles change shape as I move. It ended up being too loose.
9. The mask on my face! The glove pattern I made by tracing my hand, then sewed wadding with slits to put the fins in - I need to find a way to secure them because I lost one at Dragon*Con :( I MacGuyver’d a replacement with cardboard and hotglue.
10. Here you can see a different bodysuit - I cheated and am actually using my Cass Cain bodysuit because no one will see the symbol anyways XP
To sculpt I use Chavant medium NSP plasteline - it’s easier to heat but will hold its shape. It’s also sulphur free so it means that it won’t prevent silicon from curing(hardening).
The silicon I use is Pinkysil - the easiest to use mix ratio wise(1:1) and easiest for me to find in my country haha.
The resin I use is Easycast - also a 1:1 mix ratio. I also cheat and put my silicon moulds in my mini oven when I’m impatient. The silicon is heat resistant and the resin cures faster!
I haven’t properly measured the cure times yet but it helped me when I needed to cure many items for Frankie Stein in a short amount of time.
A 1:1 mix ratio is good because there’re more room for error if you get your measurements a little bit off.